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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.